On a recent visit to Edmonton, we decided to stay in an Airbnb right downtown so I could experience first-hand the Downtown Edmonton experience – The Good, Bad and Ugly! Here is a summary of that experience.
While there are numerous efforts to add colour and charm to Downtown Edmonton there is still little vitality except when there is a special event happening. This is true not only for Edmonton’s downtown, but most Canadian cities.
The highlight of our Downtown Edmonton stay was the wading pool and fountains at City Hall. It was great to see how families were enjoying playing in the water. Every downtown needs something like this. Reminded me of Crown Fountain in Chicago’s Millennium Park. Parks and public art need to create every day fun and interest not just when programmed.
The Good
I spent a lovely Saturday morning exploring downtown Edmonton. First stop was the Alberta Craft Council Building which is must visit for me whenever I’m in Edmonton. Love the two exhibition gallery spaces as well as the diversity of craft work available for purchase, from ceramics to glass, from woodworkers pieces to jewellery – something for everyone.
Then it was off to the 104th Street Farmers’ market, that had a great vibe with people of all ages and backgrounds milling about. I couldn’t help but wonder why downtown Calgary doesn’t have a weekend farmer’s market in the summer. We stopped for a coffee and treat and did some people watching. We loved the polka-dot plaza.
We then wandered over to Churchill Square to see what was happening at the Taste of Edmonton. But first we dropped into the Edmonton Arts Council shop located on the Square to browse some more arts and crafts. It would be nice to have something like that next to Calgary’s Olympic Plaza, perhaps in the expanded Werklund Centre, that anchors the city’s arts district.
It was late morning, but the festival atmosphere was already in full swing. We proceed to the water fountain at City Hall and had too much fun watching the kids play with the soccer/beach balls in the fountains. Wow…that is what downtown Calgary needs. Could have been part of the new Eau Claire Plaza or part of Century Gardens redesign. Two missed opportunities – both have water features but nothing as fun as this.
It was hard to leave the fountain, but the Art Gallery of Alberta was calling our name. We checked out the gift shop which seems a bit lame for major gallery and then decided to keep on walking making our way to the plaza behind the library (that looks like a military tank), which was deserted. This was not surprising as it is hidden from the street, not a great place for a plaza. So, we quickly started walking to Jasper Avenue.
On our way we stumbled upon The Artworks (10150 100 St) a funky design gift/flower store with a funky outdoor space that is great for selfies and photo shoots. Inside the boutique is full of beautiful, curated designer items, from pens to jewelry, from blankets to socks, from glassware to cards and other fun stuff. I bought a cool yellow coffee cup. Yes, there are some fun shops in downtown Edmonton, but you must hunt for them.
Edmonton has done a good job of creating two learning campuses in the downtown – Grant McEwan University and NorQuest College. The university has four major buildings along 104 Ave that attracts 13,500 daytime students and the college attracts 12,500 students to five buildings. However, the students are like office workers they arrive in the morning and leave in the evening, adding little vitality to the downtown in the evening and weekends, which is when it is most needed.
Today downtown Edmonton probably has almost equal numbers of students, government and private sector workers coming downtown weekdays.
The Alberta Craft Council building adds colour and charm, both outside and in. It is a must visit for anyone into the visual arts.
The downtown Saturday Farmers’ Market creates vitality, attracting people of all ages and backgrounds in the summer and fall.
Loved the polka dot plaza that has been created in an empty lot connecting Michael Phair Park and the 104th Street market.
Churchill Square was animated as the Taste of Edmonton festival was taking place.
The Bad
Jasper Avenue is what gives Edmonton the nickname “Deadmonton.” It has been slowing dying for decades and looks like it is still on its last legs. Even the heritage Bay Store that is occupied by University of Alberta is tired looking. You’d think they would want to make it flagship place to highlight its programs and quest for excellence. There is literally nothing on Jasper Avenue to see or do except Audreys Books at 107th.
We did pass by two new small parks along Jasper - Amiskwaciw Waskayhkan Ihtawin and O-day’min - both were empty. While in theory more parks should make the downtown a more attractive place to live, learn, work and play and perhaps they are busy during the week, but on the weekend, they just reinforce the feeling downtown is dead.
We did wander into Edmonton’s City Centre downtown indoor mall and it was like a ghost town – no people and few shops. Again dead!
This is Beaver Hills House Park along Jasper Avenue. It was dead both time we passed by - looks nice but there is no compelling reason to stop, sit or gather there.
Just a few blocks away from Beaver Hills House Park is O-day’min Park with this strange white circle sculpture (I later learned it is light). Again the park was dead on a nice Saturday afternoon. Urban parks need to be surrounded by commercial uses on their edge, cafe, restaurants, shops, convenience store that spill out onto the public space, to create every day animation.
The Park has a Pavilion, children’s playground, basketball court and lots of seating but no people.
The plaza behind Edmonton’s downtown library was sterile. It is poorly located and unnecessary given Churchill Square is just minutes away. Better to have just one, well-designed plaza that will attract a critical mass of people to create a vibrant and safe every day place for everyone.
The Ugly
The streets of downtown Edmonton were ugly. Seemed like every street was being torn up for new LRT or other improvements. As a pedestrian I was constantly having to negotiate temporary sidewalks, dodging pilons and negotiating closed sidewalks. One must wonder nobody goes downtown anymore and I have to wonder if anyone will return to downtown once the improvements are completed.
Downtown Edmonton’s big urban renewal project is the Ice District, an 8-block area next to Rogers Place arena. But it too was dead both times I visited - once at night (Friday evening) and once during the day (Saturday). I was shocked to find three of the major anchors next to the Ice District’s plaza are banks. Why would you do that? They are never going to be open in the evening and weekends and have minimal visitation weekdays. Yes, there is a huge office/hotel tower, residential tower and grocery store next to the plaza, but there was literally nobody around. It was very sterile. Yes, the plaza looks great on TV during the NHL playoff and when programmed, but most of the time it is dead. I was not impressed.
Several of the downtown streets are currently torn up for a new leg of the city’s LRT system. While this is hopefully a long-term benefit to the downtown, the immediate impact has been the closure of several retail and restaurants spaces. And locals are avoiding coming downtown! Will they come back?
This is the street in front of Edmonton Centre indoor shopping mall that is mostly empty. It was recently sold and the new owners have promised to renovate, adding more residential to the downtown.
It doesn’t look to me like the University of Alberta is “Leading with Purpose” when you walk by the historic Hudson’s Bay department store on Jasper Avenue. Surely they could create better windows and a more welcoming sense of place.
This was the sidewalk along Jasper Avenue - downtown Edmonton’s Main Street.
Downtown Edmonton’s storefront widows are dominated by “For Lease” signs.
Last Word
Speaking to one retail person about the state of Edmonton’s downtown he smiled and said, “it is a little rough!” That is an understatement. When I asked if he knew how long the streets would be torn up, he said, “we have no idea, nobody tells us anything, it has been like this for several years now and I don’t see it changing for several more.”
The closure of seven major restaurants over the past few months is a good indication that downtown Edmonton continues to decline despite significant efforts to revive it.
The friends we visited all said they rarely go downtown. Why? I suspect it is because there is no compelling reason to go downtown.
