Slow Travel Postcards: Morley, Exshaw, Canmore and Banff
When heading west to Canmore or Banff, most Calgarians hop on the TransCanada Highway and race out of town to the mountains for a quick getaway. Not us! We decided to take our time and take Highway 1A the original road from Calgary to Banff. We are glad we did!
It was a drive back in time, to what life was like 50+ years ago - a drive to the country on twisty, two-lane roads where the average speed is about 80km/hour.
It is amazing how relaxed and much more you see at a slower speed. It also means you are more apt to stop when you see something interesting.
A good example was our stop at the McDougall Memorial United Church, Morleyville Settlement, which, was a reminder of the past and also the present with its references to the early pioneer days and the reconciliation efforts.
Travel Alberta website excerpt:
“On the 1A Highway between Cochrane and Banff, there stands a Church surrounded by natural grassland. This is the site of Southern Alberta’s first pioneer settlement, Morleyville. The Church was the heart of that settlement and Morleyville was the centre for over 200 people. A powerful reminder of their Western heritage and values, the church tragically burned down in May 2017. The Provincial Government approved the restoration of this historic site.
The Mission was the forerunner of Morleyville Settlement. In 1875, there were twenty-three residents of European descent. By 1881, sixty settlers were collecting their mail from the post office inside the trading post. By contrast, in the same year, only 30 people were collecting mail in Fort Calgary. In 1891, 100 families totaling 388 people were listed as living at Morleyville.
Today, an interpretive walk winds through the site inviting you to walk back in time while enjoying unspoiled vistas of the Rocky Mountains and Foothills.”
We then decided to stop at the town of Morley where we found some interesting architecture and drive around the hamlet of Exshaw where its huge cement plant dates back to 1906. It was once the largest and most advanced in the world (due to availability of limestone and power). It is a good reminder that the mountains are more than just a recreational playground.
Canmore Vintage Fun
If you are looking some vintage fun, there is no better place than Hello Vintage at 717 10St in Canmore. The vintage clothing and accessories are curated and displayed in a manner that is delightful. It is sure to bring a smile to your face.
You should also check out the North-West Mounted Police Barracks museum on Main Street. Built in 1893, the building was the home, lodging and jail in Canmore until 1929. It is the oldest NWMP detachment to still stand on its original location. While we were visiting two young boys were having blast doing the treasure hunt and wearing some of the clothing. I was intrigued by the jail cell.
Canmore has vibrant Main Street that is fun to explore and if you are into climbing you should check out the climbing wall at Elevation Place it is like a work of art.
Love sidewalk stories…..
Love this school bus ice cream shop in Canmore.
“Hold On” bus is appropriately named as it transports people to white water rafting.
Banff Off The Beaten Path
Upon arriving in Banff, we checked into our hotel, parked our car - and left it there for two days while we explored the townsite on foot. In doing so, we found a few off the beaten path things to see and do – an old cemetery, historical walking tour, Masonic Lodge Museum, Cascade Gardens and the Bow River Trails. And of course, we found the only thrift store in Banff, where I scored some great books.
Cascade #5 Masonic Lodge
“The building is of significant historical value as the hub of social life in Banff for many years serving as the meeting place for the Freemasons, Shriners and Members of the Order of the Eastern Star. The building was also used as year-round community space when most of the hotels would close for the winter season and it was one of the largest buildings in town. Many of Banff’s most notable citizens have served as members of the Cascade Lodge, the oldest fraternal organization in Banff. The building is still used as a Masonic Lodge, one of the oldest still in operation in Canada, and is also a museum of local Masonic history.
The aesthetic value of the building resides in its commanding presence in downtown Banff reflecting its importance in the early development of the community. The imposing entranceway, with a concrete stairway leading to a large foyer, and the Masonic insignia present on the building exterior and walkway create a sense of mystique about the building. It is a purpose designed building, housing the Masonic Lodge Room and accompanying furnishings. Having survived a fire in 1949, many of the original furnishings have been retained owing to the continuous use of the building as a Masonic Lodge since 1925.” (from the Municipal Heritage Designation Bylaw document)
Banff Cemetery
“Throughout the years, the cemetery has grown and now provides a resting place for over two thousand local souls. Mary Schaffer Warren, one of Banff's pioneering female mountaineers, once lived opposite the cemetery. Although initially skeptical, she came to appreciate the location, describing the cemetery as a "place of rest and kindly neighbours". A Crag and Canyon article suggested that "no more fitting place could be chosen by an admirer of nature and her handiwork for that long, last sleep that knows no waking", while Jon Whyte, a Banff historian and poet, pronounced it "the nicest cemetery in Canada." (Town of Banff website)
LInk: Old Banff Cemetery
Banff’s Old Cemetery, like most cemeteries is a well manicured park.
Headstone reads, “Norman Kenny (1874 to 1962) sailed Pacific Ocean from Vancouver to New Zealand in thirty foot Indian dugout ‘Tilikum’ 1902. Georgia Elizabeth (1870 to 1965) …first white child in Alberta. Learn more about Luxton’s voyage: Tilikum
Banff Historical Walking Tour
A self-guided Banff walking tour is available at the Town of Banff’s website to download. There are five tours: Downtown Discovery, Cemetery Circuit, Culture Cruise, Whyte Wander and Further Foryas. (Obviously somebody love alliterations, just like I do). You could easily spend most of a day doing all five tours. For us it was fun to just randomly wander and find them.
Sample page from the Town of Banff’s self-guided walking tour.
Banff Trails
There are lots of interesting trails within or near the Banff Townsite. The Marsh Loop (2.8 km) is interesting as it takes you to pristine marshland with bubbling thermal waters that are home to huge schools of tropical fish. Sundance Canyon starts at the Cave and Basin National Historic Site takes you on a 3.7 km journey next to water filled canyon.
The Spray River East and West paths take you along the Spray River, with a short interpretive walk around the Fairmont Banff Springs hotels and thundering Bow Falls. From town, you can also walk up to the Banff Centre for spectacular views, check out the Walter Phillips Art Gallery, public art and enjoy a drink or meal at the Maclab Bistro which is now open. It is worth the walk just to see Brian Jungen’s “The ghosts on top of my head” benches.
Just up the hill from the Banff Cemetery is Surprise Corner. You can access this trail at the corner of Buffalo Street and Tunnel Mountain Road. It is called Surprise Corner because as you reach the corner you get an amazing view of the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel on the other side of the river. From Surprise Corner you can access the Hoodoo Trail a 4.6 km
You also won’t want to miss a walk in the Cascade Gardens, a 4-acre park built in the 1930s next to the Banff Park Administration building.
Wandering the residential streets of Banff is interesting not only for the heritage homes but also the fun flaneur finds like this old bench on a front lawn with a plaque saying “The Philosopher’s Bench.”
People Watching
As part of our slow travel we were in no rush to see and do everything.
On the first days we spent an enjoyable couple of hours sitting on patio of The Park restaurant/bar right next to the sidewalk so we could enjoy some amazing people watching.
We had front row seats to an eclectic parade of people and dogs of all shapes, sizes and backgrounds.
We liked it so much we did the same thing the next day – but this time at the Fire + Fox patio (FYI, they have great Happy Hour deals) where we could not only watch the people strolling the street, but also the people checking-in to the Elk + Avenue Hotel, wondering what their story was.
As it turns out many of them were heading out the next day on the Rocky Mountaineer train to Vancouver (the train’s first trip since Fall of 2019 due to COVID). We even had a chance encounter and quick chat with Martin Flanagan of Canada Rail Vacations.
We learned he had reserved two cars on this “first train” for a curated trip he and his team had organized. One of the passengers was a 90-year old gentleman who has taken the trip many times. Too bad my 90-year old Mom didn’t know about this, she may have joined them.
Slow Travel Tips
Take the back road not the highway
Park the car and walk as much as possible
Take public transit when available
Stop and sit often
Say “Hi” as you walk by people
Visit old parks and cemeteries
Ask locals for their hidden gems
Walk in older residential neighbourhoods
Make time to people watch
Leave lots of time for unplanned stops
Don’t plan too much / never have a full agenda
Take the road/path/trail less travelled
Last Word
For us, visiting a place isn’t about experiencing the newest cocktail bar, the trendiest restaurants, the best boutiques or the swankiest spa. Rather, it is about wandering the side streets, parks and pathways with eyes wide open and chatting with people along the way. We are almost always reward with discovering hidden gems and feeling more relaxed.
And Yes slow travel and flaneuring have a lot in common.
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