Vancouver Fun Flaneur Finds: Bookstores, Pizza Parlours, Hospital, Cafes
Vancouver is full of hidden gems partly because it is full of new developments which results in new fun finds. On my most recent trip, I discovered two tasty pizza parlours, a block with two funky bookstore, a hospital with a 100+ year nursing history and two off-the-beaten-path coffee shops.
Lonsdale Pizza Parlours
After getting off the Sea Bus (think ferry) to Lonsdale, I headed up the main street where I spotted a sandwich board to Helicon Books on a side street and made a left turn and there was Dave & Mel’s (113 W 1st St, North Vancouver) a cheerful looking, tiny take-out pizza parlour. I was feeling some hunger pangs but decided to ignore them as it was a bit early for lunch and head to the book store.
However on the way back to main street I gave into to pangs and decided to have a piece of pie. Dave Cartner the gregarious owner was extremely friendly and recommended the pizza of the day with fresh clams, mozzarella cheese and an alfredo olive oil sauce. It was very tasty.
I continued on my way to the Salvation Army thrift store and whatever else I could find. On a bit of a whim I headed down a side street that looked like it might have some shops and lo and behold I found a thrift store that wasn’t listed on google maps – bonus. On the way back to Lonsdale Ave I passed by Farina a Legna pizza parlour. Do I dare have pizza twice for lunch? Why not? It was a great find.
Farina a Legna (119 2nd St E, North Vancouver) has a vintage family style décor and an Italian menu with a focus on pizza from it wood oven. Fun fact: Farina is flour and Legna is wood in Italian.
Turns out it is part of the Kitchen Table Restaurants group known for its popular family-friendly, informal, neighbourhood eateries. My finocchiona pizza was excellent (fennel sausage, provolone, parmigiano, peppadews and large basil leaves). There is a small but carefully curated wine, beer and cocktail selection.
Everyday Tourist Tip: It often pays off to wander off the main street if you are looking for fun flaneur finds. I always like to glance along the side blocks to see if there might be anything interesting – sandwich board, canopy, banner, maybe a street patio – something that might indicate a shop, café or some sort of interesting business.
Moore’s Bakery & Eccles Cakes
My Mom and I love ecceles cakes, but they are getting harder and harder to find. While wandering Kerrisdale main street we discovered Moore’s Bakery Est 1930 (2128 W 41st Ave) and thought why not check it out. While the bakery is 80+ years old, this is not the original site, nor the original Moore family, but it has the look of mid-century bake shop with glass cases full of colourful tasty treats.
As I was eyeing them, I notice the tray of ecceles cake and quickly ordered two, one to eat there and one to take home and eat later.
The bakery had a great buzz with people coming and going, pick-up pre-orders and sitting having a coffee and a treat like us. It was the perfect flaneur break. This is not a fancy café with its over-priced coffee and designer décor but a fun family sense of place.
MacLeod’s Books vs The Paper Hound Bookshop
Within a block of each other on West Pender St. between Homer (how appropriate) and Richards St. are two charming, yet polar opposites bookstores. MacLeod’s Books at 455W Pender is mecca for used book lovers with eclectic tastes. The place is pack with books - literally floor to ceiling. When you first walk in you might be overwhelmed, but take a few minutes and you realize even the books stacked on the floor are mostly in the right place. Ask for help and you will be pointed in the direction of whatever interests you.
If you are into the “thrill of the hunt” this is your place.
Wander a block over just past Richards (344 West Pender) on the other side of the street and you will find The Paper Hound Bookshop offering a carefully curated selection of books all beautifully displayed. Owners Kim Koch and Rod Clarke have created an urban oasis for bibliophiles on their way to Gastown. Their website doesn’t lie, you will find in this tiny shop the classics, as well as scholarly, bizarre, and whimsical books, even some fun curiosities.
Definitely worth stopping by.
St. Paul’s Nursing History
Due to unfortunate circumstances, I needed to find the Radiology Department at St. Paul’s Hospital and while wandering the hallway I came upon a wall telling the story of the St. Paul’s Hospitals nursing program’s history. I loved the timeline information, the photos and the vignettes. I couldn’t help but think every hospital could/should do more of this as a way of documenting and celebrating its medical history. I wonder if they will have a similar display in the new St. Paul’s Hospital campus currently under construction.
Everyday Tourist Hot Tip: I love exploring older public buildings (universities, colleges, libraries) as you never know what you might find. Often there are quirky display cases with interesting artifacts from the past. Unfortunately, COVID and safety issues have many of these building closed to the casual visitor.
Note: Since returning to Calgary I have found walls with historical information at both the Rockyview and Peter Lougheed Hospitals.
Greenhorn & Cardero West End Cafes
Looking for an off-the-beaten-path place for coffee? Look no further than Greenhorn Café (944 Nicola St.) and Cardero Cafe (1016 Cardero St.) in the West End. Both are on quiet residential streets with just a few tables on the street, however Greenhorn is kitty-corner to a still functioning heritage fire station which can provide some excitement. Cardero has a tropical feel as it is engulfed in lush vegetation, with no seating inside and just a couple of tables - best to go in off hours and on a nice day. Greenhorn is a popular weekend breakfast and brunch spot so be prepared to wait. We enjoyed the muffins so much we took two home for breakfast the next day.
Last Word
Nothing makes me happier than discovering a hidden gem when flaneuring a city or a new neighbourhood. It always amazes me how I can find new things even in a city or neighbourhood I have visited many times.
Other Fun Flaneur Finds In Vancouver:
Does Vancouver have the world’s happiest sculpture?
Vancouver Street Fun For Everyone!
Vancouver: Jane Jacob’s quintessential main street!