London: Everyday Tourist’s Top 10Picks
While most tourists visiting London will head to the obvious places to visit – British Museum, National Gallery, Tate Museum, London Museum, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Church, Trafalgar Square, Harrods or Selfridges – the everyday tourist looks for the places less visited, but just as interesting and inspiring.
Here are my top 10 suggestions for those looking to experience and appreciate Central London’s past and present cultures. Especially those looking for fun, funky and quirky things. (Note: They are listed in no particular order.)
#1 Wellcome Collection (183 Euston Road)
Wellcome Collection is a fun museum, library, shop and café. Seems like almost every city has an eclectic individual who was a world traveller and collector. For London, it’s Sir Henry Solomon Wellcome (1853 to 1936). In Calgary it was Eric Harvie whose collection is the basis of the Glenbow Museum.
Wellcome amassed a huge collection of paintings, objects, books and other artifacts of medicine from around the world.
The gallery has two main exhibition spaces, one for changing events and exhibitions based on the theme of health and wellness; the other for exhibitions that combines historical and modern art, objects and artifacts relating to medicine for the Wellcome collection.
It is a scary, fascinating and enlightening experience, all at the same time.
Be sure to save time to check out the charming Library, perhaps even time to read a few passages from a book or two, look at the displays and people watch. The large museum shop has lots of educational items for children of all ages, making it a great source of souvenirs for your children or grandchildren.
Tip: Plan your trip so you can enjoy afternoon tea and scones in the cafe. Not only is the design gorgeous, they serve some of the best scones in London!
#2 Columbia Road Flower Market
If you want to mingle with the locals, then the Columbia Flower Market is your kind of place.
Like everywhere in London, the area has a rich history. The Columbia Market, established in 1869 as a handsome covered food market, was destroyed in World War II.
In the 1960s, with the increasing popularity of gardening, a street market was established every Sunday with traders arriving at 4 am to set up in the dark. It gradually became a flower only market.
Today the market is several blocks long with a wide range of flowers and plants – at great prices – a dozen roses for 10£.
There are also numerous shops and cafes open along the street to pop in and out of. A perfect place for people watching, it is perhaps one of the most colourful and unique experiences I’ve had in a long time.
Note: Open Sunday’s only, 8 am to 2 pm.
#3 Guildhall Art Gallery (Guildhall Yard)
If you are looking for a hidden gem, then the Guildhall Art Gallery should be on your “to do in London list.” It’s a charming gallery that won’t overwhelm you like London’s monster museums and galleries can. It’s an eclectic collection including one of the few copies of the Magna Carta which is stored in the Guild Library most of the time. We were fortunate that it was on display when we were there.
The first art gallery was built in 1885 with the present building opening in 1999. It hosts changing exhibitions of the City of London’s collection of paintings, drawings and sculptures, as well as temporary exhibitions. In 1988, the Museum of London’s archaeologists made an astonishing discovery – the capital’s only Roman amphitheatre was located under Guildhall Yard (aka plaza). You can access the amphitheatre’s ruins from the basement of the art gallery.
The historical art and history exhibition were enlightening to me. Things like plans for an Eiffel Tower structure for London and ground pedestrians walkways like Calgary’s +15 system caught my interest. Neither project got built. The area around the art gallery is full of history dating back to 1400s, is definitely worth exploring.
#4 Alfie’s Antique Market (13-25 Church Street)
If you are into mid-century modern design, Alfie’s is a must-see. Located in the former Jordan’s department store, it’s a rabbit warren of 75+ dealers spread out over five floors, open Tuesday to Saturday, from 10am to 6pm.
Go on Saturday, and you can enjoy the bustling Church Street market to wander. And with several private art galleries and antique shops along Church street for “window licking” and browsing, it all makes for a great day.
Alfie’s roof-top bistro offers a charming place to enjoy brunch lunch or just sip on a coffee or tea – it is London after all) and enjoy the view.
#5 Charity Shopping
Thrifting is an entirely different experience in London.
Unlike North America with our big box thrift stores, London’s Charity Shops are like designer boutiques. In fact, you can easily mistake them for upscale fashion stores – all their street windows are beautifully curated.
Inside, the merchandise is professionally displayed; no endless racks of jeans and shoes or randomly placed books – everything is hand-picked. Because they are small, maybe 1,500 square feet and well-staffed, the stores are always neat and tidy. No rummaging here!
Charity shops are located on almost every London High Street, with often two or three clustering together. And there are deals to be had on designer clothes.
Tip#1: London’s Charity shops don’t have much in the way of home décor items, it is mostly clothes, books and lots of new greeting cards.
Tip#2: The best place we found for Charity Shopping is along Islington Road near the Angel Station where you will find not only several typical charity shops but also one devoted solely to books and records.
#6 Zaha Hadid Gallery (101 Goswell Road)
For anyone interested in modern architecture, the Zaha Hadid Gallery is a “must see.” Zaha Hadid was one of the most influential modern architects of the early 21st century. She was the first woman to receive the Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2004, and the first and only woman to be awarded the Royal Gold Medal from the Royal Institute of British Architects in 2016 - just a month before she passed.
The art gallery pays homage to her work, as well as work of Zaha Hadid Design. The main floor is populated by very cool, futuristic-looking furniture designs, while the lower floor looks at some of the studios projects from concept to completion.
There is even a small shop, for those who want a very exclusive souvenir of their London visit.
Note: open Tuesday to Saturday from 2 to 6 pm
#7 200 Gray’s Inn Road (address same as name)
While returning home along Gray’s Inn Road one day, we happened upon a very ordinary looking glass building with an intriguing lobby that looked like huge café, perhaps a hotel lobby or maybe an office lobby and full of people. But no name on the building; nothing to indicate what it was but we could see a person at a reception desk so in we went. Turns out it is an office building for several major media corporations. And yes, this was the lobby and yes, there is a café/bistro that open to the public. Turns out the building was designed by the world renowned London-based architect, Norman Foster’s firm. The café was closed as it was about 6 pm, but we made a note to return as it was close by.
A few days later we did return late in the afternoon. With a drip coffee for only 1£ (a steal of a deal); we grabbed a couple of coffees and sat by the huge, floor to ceiling windows right at street level (no set back) to people watch. Learning there is buffet lunch for 6£, we came back yet again and it is also a steal of a deal.
A little more research turned up the lobby design was done by the world famous Conran and Partners designers, the goal being to create a hotel-style leisure atmosphere in an office lobby that blurred the edges of work and play. It definitely delivered on that goal! Too bad Calgary’s new office buildings don’t have transparent, welcoming lobbies like 200 Gray’s Inn Road. It would enhance the downtown pedestrian experience tremendously.
Tip: With free high speed Wi-Fi in the lobby, it’s a great place to do some work or just chill. It is kinda like a free cowork space.
#8 St. John Restaurant / Bakery (26 St. John St)
For a unique London restaurant experience, I would suggest you check out St. John Restaurant/Bakery. It is famous for its “nose to tail” menu that includes things like pigs’ ears, duck hearts and bone marrow and even squirrel when in seasons. Tasty and popular – though not for those with a queasy stomach.
We stumbled upon it when we saw it has a bakery and I was in search of London’s best Eccles cake (a pastry with 60% puff pastry and 40% dried fruit filling) .
Sure enough, St. John had some and even though they weren’t officially open, they were very willing to serve us a coffee and an Eccles cake to share (we were told most people share one.)
Not really knowing much about the restaurant, we looked at the menu and were a bit shocked. But being the culinary adventurer that I am, I decided I had to come back and try the bone marrow (when might I get another chance). So another day I went solo to have a bone marrow lunch with a craft beer and another Eccles cake for dessert (this time I was determined to have a whole cake to myself). The bone marrow was interesting - wouldn’t say delicious – but not gross either. And the Eccles cakes area indeed the best I have ever tasted.
FYI…If you are interested in trying bone marrow and are in Calgary the new Free House Local Beer & Food Hall (1153 Kensington Cres NW) has it on the menu. And there is another Calgary connection – Kevin Kent owner of Knifewear (1316 9 Ave SE) was the Sous Chef at St John for four years in the mid 2000s and loves to tell about how Anthony Bourdain use to practically live at the restaurant when he was in London.
#9 Twining’s Tea Flagship Store (216 Strand)
If you are into tea, then you must visit the Twining’s Flagship (store that has been around for over 300 years. It includes a loose leaf Tea Bar where you can smell and drink a selection of teas. As well, there are lots of historical artifacts and paintings that make it a boutique museum. And of course you can buy tea – loose or in bags. If you like, you can book a 2-hour Master class where you get to enjoy six different teas and learn about their origin and the tea culture in Britain.
Tip: This is not a big store and can be quite crowded.
#10 Sunday Dinner
If you are in London on a Sunday, head to the nearest pub and check to see if they offer a traditional “Sunday Dinner.” It consists of roast meat, gravy, roasted or mashed potatoes, vegetables and of course, Yorkshire pudding.
Yorkshire pudding is made from a batter made of eggs, flour, milk or water place in a muffin pan. The result is a strange looking mis-shaped, Salvador Dali-like hollow muffin-like object.
Though usually covered in gravy, as a child, I ate it for dessert sprinkled with sugar. YUM!
And, don’t be surprised if the pub is packed from early Sunday afternoon until early evening. The more crowded the pub, the better the food. Sunday dinner is a great opportunity to mix with the locals.
Last WoRd
Central London is truly on big city, packed with things to see and do. In three weeks we barely scratched the surface. We are already mulling over plans to return so we can do some more FFQing - discovering more fun, funky and quirky things.
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