Calgary Barbershop to Hong Kong Markets
I never know what will happen when I go for a haircut. Recently I went to a new barber which is a bit like a first date i.e. you must ask and answer a lot of sometimes awkward questions to develop a conversation. Or alternatively, suffer in silence.
So, after deciding how short I wanted my hair, I started with one of my favourite questions “Where are you from?” FYI: As most Calgarians are from somewhere else, this usually results in more questions like “Why did you move to Calgary? Where in Calgary do you live? Etc.”. And so the conversation begins….
In this case, she said she moved to Calgary from Hong Kong, to which I responded, “I’ve been to Hong Kong and loved it, especially the markets.” After a bit of chitchat, I asked if she knew my favourite Hong Kong Market - Revolution Street Market. She had never heard of it, so we moved on to chat about other things.
When I got home, I looked it up – oops - it was Reclamation Street Market, not Revolution Street that I loved. Hey, it was 30+ years ago – both words start and end the same!
Reclamation Street Market (RSM)
It is strange how some travel memories stick with you forever while others are quickly forgotten. I remember discovering RSM vividly. It was the end of the busy day and my wife was tired and wanted to go back to our room and rest up. But as I still wanted to explore (remember I was younger) so I she went one way and I went the other when we got to our hotel.
After a short time of flaneuring, I noticed locals with bags of food and so I started heading in the direction they were coming from and soon happened upon a street market that resembled a riot – it was utter chaos - people and product scattered everywhere. I loved it immediately. The animated chatter of the buyers and sellers was wonderful, even if I didn’t understand a word.
I was in my glory as I wandered along street that was a kaleidoscope of colours. This was not like the tranquil bohemian farmers’ markets I am used to. There were live fish flopping about, as well as fruits and vegetables I had never seen before (remember I was much younger.)
The most shocking and lasting memory was of the merchant who was cutting up live, squirming frogs. I was mesmerized at how he matter-of-factly grabbed frogs, one at a time, out of the bucket and began chopping the head and legs off. Blood squirted onto the road below, him and had I had gotten closer, it would have been on me too. I was the only person who stopped to watch, everyone else just walked right on by. I wish I had a video of this but alas, it was the pre-cell phone era.
Reclamation Street gets its name honestly. It is on reclaimed land on the western shore of the Kowloon Peninsula. Despite the market being the largest and longest fresh produce market in Hong Kong, you don’t often see it listed in the tourist information. It is a huge outdoor grocery store and a hidden gem.
The street is closed to the vehicular traffic and lined with old residential buildings (no higher than 5 storeys) that are full of tiny apartments requiring the locals to shop every day for food and other essentials. (There is no storage space to stock up on things like we do in North America!)
Location: Reclamation Street between Canton Road and Shanghai Street.
Open: Every day from early morning to late afternoon.
Bird Market
Hong Kong is a great “market” city, with several unique markets to choose from. Spending time exploring the markets is a great way to experience the city’s unique culture and sense of place, as well as mix and mingle with the locals.
I also loved the “Yuen Po Street Bird Market,” commonly known as “Bird Market,” with its cacophony of birds all chirping and singing away at the same time. There are 70+ shops and stalls selling birds and bird products. Here you’ll find a wide array of songbirds in all colours and sizes, from tiny sparrows, canaries, oriental magpie-robins, parrots, small budgies and parakeets. You’ll also see some amazing bird cages that are literally works of art.
And if that isn’t enough, it is fun to watch the locals who are there just to take their birds in cages for a walk, like North American’s do with their dogs. They will often just hang them in a tree while they chat with friends.
It is literally a bird park, where locals meet and chat, while the birds sing to each other. For tourists, it is a great way to mingle with the locals and experience the local culture.
History: The original Bird Market was located along Mongkok’s Hong Lock Street, but the development of the Langham Place Shopping Mall resulted in its relocation to Yuen Po Street with its traditional “pai lou” gate and intimate garden setting with numerous small courtyards.
Location: Flower Market Road, Mong Kok District
Open: Every day from 8 am to 6 pm
Goldfish Market
In Chinese culture, goldfish bring good luck. So it is not surprising that there is a market specializing in goldfish. The street has dozens of stalls and shops selling different types of goldfish, as well as other species of fish and aquariums. While the locals visit the market to make purchases, this spot gives foreigners a chance to discover another aspect of the city’s unique local culture. The market is close to the Ladies Market and Flower Market, making for fun day of market flaneuring.
Location: Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok District
Open: Every day from 10 am to 9 pm
Temple Street Night Market
Hong Kong also has several night markets - with the most famous one being the “Temple Street Market” which stretches from Jordan Road to Nanking Street.
It is a great place to sample Hong Kong’s street food culture – pepper buns, chai ko (steamed rice pudding), tong chung candy, Ding Ding candy, dragon beard candy and “aeroplane olives” (marinated).
The street is also known for its numerous neon signs, illuminated art installations and wall projects combining to create a contemporary outdoor art gallery.
Everyday Tourist Tip: At the north end of the market, there are several “fortune-teller” booths. It is great fun to have your fortune read!
Location: Temple Street, from Jordan Road to Nanking Street
Open: Every day from, late afternoon to 11 pm.
Ladies’ Market
With 100+ shops and stalls along a one kilometre stretch of Tung Choi Street, you’ll find everything you could imagine - including undergarments of all shapes and sizes. Bargaining is encouraged and half the fun. Good hagglers can usually get 30% of more off the original prices.
Location: Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok District
Open: Every day from Noon to 10:30 pm.
Jade Market
The Jade Market may be small (only 25 stalls), but it is where serious jade hunters come to buy their precious stones. For Chinese people, jade brings good luck and good health. Babies are often given jade at birth to protect them from evil spirits. You will find all ages of locals at the market as hunting for a good piece of jade is a hobby, especially for the older generation.
FYI: Dark green jade that is translucent is the most valuable.
Location: Kansu Street, Yau Ma Tei District
Open: Every day from 9 am to 6 pm.
Cat Street Market
Cat Street is not a market that specializes in pet cats. Rather, it is flea market with a treasure trove of antiques. If you love the “thrill of the hunt,” this market is for you! Rummage through a mix of relics reflecting the culture of Hong Kong and China - you may even find some jade items, Mao statues or perhaps carved dragon to take home. However, buyer beware - watch out for fake antiques being sold as genuine.
Location: Hollywood Road and Upper Lascar Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island
Open: Every day from 11 am to 7 pm.