When vacationing we love to theme our days. One day might be just aimless flaneuring, another day thrifting, or searching for public art. If you are in Palm Springs on a Thursday, it is a perfect day for exploring the city’s art and history fun as the Palm Springs Art Museum (PSAM) is free in the evening. Here is our ideal downtown Palm Springs art & history guide.

Palm Springs Art Museum is free on Thursday nights.

Coffee & Library

We started our day off with trip to the Starbucks Reserve (110 N Palm Canyon Dr) where we grabbed a coffee and then headed across the street to the Welwood Murray Memorial Library (100 S Palm Canyon Dr.) which is now their Visitor Centre (built in 1940) to enjoy our coffee and read some newspapers. Note the inside has been gutted and it is only the entrance that is original, but it is still worth a visit.

Hot Tip: On Sundays, you can grab a coffee and read the Sunday New York Times for free. It also has free WIFI which is a rarity these days.

General Store Fun

Next, we crossed back over South Palm Canyon Drive (aka Main Street) to Palm Springs Historical Society’s buildings which are a bit of a hidden gem. You can easily walk by them and think they are just a couple of old buildings, but inside are numerous exhibitions that tell the story of Palm Springs - from indigenous people to early settlers to movie stars and mid-century modern architecture and design. If you are interested, ask about their theme walking tours (e.g. Rat Pack Playground) as well as bike tours.

There are three buildings on the site. The Cornelia White House, built in 1893 out of recycled railroad ties with period furniture inside. The McCallum Adobe House built in 1884, by the first permanent white settler, John Guthrie McCallum offering impressive rotating exhibitions, as well as a bookstore. Admission is by donation.

At the back of the site is Ruddy’s 1930s General Store and Museum. Here you will find a treasure trove of Depression era artifacts, from drug store items to clothing, from toys to hardware. Backstory: Jim Ruddy (1933 to 2017) purchased a museum in the Midwest which had a collection of Depression-era merchandise and combined it with his existing collection to create a fun museum/store in downtown Palm Springs in 1983. In 2003, he donated the entire museum to the city. It is a sight to be seen.

Lunch or Museum

Now you need to make a decision - do you want to visit another museum or have lunch? We opted to head over to the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum, located just a few blocks away (140 N Indian Canyon Dr.). In 2024, it was included in Time Magazine’s World’s Greatest Places. Though not sure it is that “great”, but it is certainly worth a visit. The building is an oasis surrounded by large palm trees and a man-made crevice with a stream replicating what you might experience in the nearby mountains.

The building’s architecture is distinct with its rounded façade, inspired by the indigenous people’s basket weaving tradition. Inside, there are two large exhibition spaces with artifacts well displayed and the Creation Migration Theatre which is where you start by watching the12-minute animation story of the Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians history and core beliefs. Once you leave the theatre meander along a narrow path-like route through the exhibitions and didactic panels that take you from early life, to adaptation to settlers to self-determination. It feels like you are walking in a canyon that would have been part of the everyday experience of the first people.

The building sits on one of the Coachella Valley’s most important historic pieces of land, the site of the Sec-he sacred Hot Mineral Spring. Adjacent is a huge casino and a spa.

Now it is definitely time for lunch at Shermans Deli & Bakery just a few blocks away (401 E. Tahquitz Canyon Way). Established in 1953, it is still poplar today with both locals and tourists. Be prepared to wait 15 to 20 minutes for a table, but it is worth it. It is a bustling place with an extensive menu. The stacked Rueben sandwich is perhaps its signature sandwich and you will need a hearty appetite to finish it. You might want to take some home (or share) as you will want to sample one of their decadent desserts (see photos). Shermans is definitely a “must” experience.

The entrance to the exhibitions is very dramatic almost eerie.

This is just one of several themed exhibition spaces telling the Cahuilla Indians’ history.

**The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians own Section 14, a 1 square mile tract of land in downtown Palm Springs, California**. The tribe's relationship with the city of Palm Springs has been complex, and the city's actions in the 1940s through the 1960s have been the subject of debate and reparations claims. It is where the museum, casino and spa are now located.

The special exhibition gallery with photo by Horace Poolaw was enlightening in documenting the lives of American Indians and their sense of community.

Pickle, potato salad and half sandwich was perfect for lunch.

Pistachio cake was yummy - note the two forks.

PSAM

Now is probably a good time for a siesta, before you head over to the Palm Springs Art Museum which is free every Thursday from 5 to 8 pm. Don’t be surprised if you have to line up, but the line will move quickly and once inside, people will spread out. The gallery isn’t huge but has a very diverse and interesting collection of modern art on two levels with great sight-lines. I will let the photos do the talking. There is also usually a special ticketed exhibition but it isn’t included in the free admission.

FYI: It has a great museum shop for those looking for a unique souvenir.

On our way to the gallery we happened up the Aluminaire House glowing in the early evening light. The PSAM owns this house and the modernist Frey House II, which you can tour. The Museum also has a second building The Architecture and Design Centre that is also free on Thursday nights.

Duane Hanson’s “Old Couple on a Bench” 1995 is perhaps the most photographed piece in the gallery. At first glance you think it is two visitors who are just taking a break from wander the galleries.

I loved how people interacted with the art, not sure I have seen this in other major galleries or art museums. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the art not just pondering it.

Another favourite was this whimsical stack of plates by Robert Therrien. Glad I don’t have to wash this stack of dishes.

Robert Arneson, Casualty in the Art Realm, 1979

This mega David Hockney artwork was impressive in scale and impact.

The highlight of this visit was this display of Matisse lithographs.

Street Festival

The day is not done yet as every Thursday night is the Palm Springs Village Fest a street fair of local arts, crafts, food and entertainment just two blocks away on S. Palm Canyon Drive. The live music was the best I have ever experienced at any street festival. There is good mix of vendors, all with professional displays. We grabbed some homemade ginger cookies that were yummy (wish we had bought two packs) and some huge fresh figs which melted in your mouth. It is one of the best street festivals or night markets I have experienced.

Now it is time for a late dinner. Our recommendation would be to make a reservation at Farm or its sister restaurant Front Porch (more casual) for an upscale experience. If you are looking for something even more casual Bill’s Pizza is just down the block.