Slow Travel in Ontario: Back Roads From London to Chatham
As a flaneur I am always looking to take the road less traveled so when my Mom and I decided to take a road trip from London to Chatham, I looked for a back road rather than taking the 401 expressway. So we took highway #3 that become #2 that leads directly to Chatham. And we are glad we did.
Instead of watching speeding cars and transportation trucks, we were able to enjoy the numerous charming yellow-brick farm homes with their colourful gardens, and yes some even had their tiny vegetable stands along the road.
Tecumseh Monument / Parkway
We also discovered the Tecumseh Monument (4 km east of Thamesville), which was definitely worth the stop. You can’t miss it, as there is large stainless steel sculpture (50 feet high and 48 feet wide) shaped like a turtle shell. Turns out the piece was created by Gordon Reeve, originally from Chatham and is indeed meant to be a tortoise shell. Get up close and you will see the steel is etched to represent birch bark with the outline of animals, fish and fowl along the top.
There is also a monument to Tecumseh, a Shawnee Chief who fought with the British in the War of 1812 and died at the Battle of the Thames near the town Thamesville. In addition there is a series of history panels along the side road next to the monument shares the entire history of Battle of the Thames, Tuesday, October 5, 1813.
Link: https://www.chatham-kent.ca/visitck/doandsee/outdoortouring/Pages/TecumsehParkway.aspx
Family History
Turns out my family actually has some connection to Tecumseh. My Uncle sent me this note after reading the blog.
Hi Richard, Our family has a connection to Tecumseh. My aunt Edna, my father's sister, your great aunt, was married to William Hasson. His second great grandfather, Christopher Arnold had a farm in Howard, near Ridgetown. (There are many Arnolds in the family tree.) This is from the story of a battle during the war of 1812..."Tecumseh rode swftly to the farm of his old aquaintance, Captain Christopher Arnold, on the river front in Howard, twelve miles from Chatham. It was at the residence of Mr. Arnold that the plan of the morrow's battle was arranged."
The Retro Suites Hotel is supposedly on the site of Uncle Arthur Goodman's furniture store. I'm pretty sure it was Tamara Crowder worked there and told me. I thought I had it in my notes but I'll have to look when I get home.
Uncle Butch
Chatham’s Black History
Arriving in Chatham one can’t help but notice all of the charming steeples of the old churches, but our first stop was the Black Mecca Museum located in a large room in a community centre. The Museum consists of several large exhibition cases each curated to tell a story:
Routes to Chatham
Black Mecca
The Spirit of Progress & Dignity
Military Service
The Struggle
Arts & Culture
But what makes the Museum experience even more interesting is that it is located in the Chatham’s historic black community neighbourhood and they offer one-hour walking tours of the ‘hood at 10 am, noon and 2 pm as part of the admission. We had booked a noon hour tour which was very enlightening.
The tour included the (British Methodist Episcopal) Freedom Park located on the site of the first BME Church of Canada in 1856.
In the middle of the park is a bust of Mary Ann Shadd Cary, an educator, abolitionist, editor, attorney and suffragette who dedicated her life to improving the lives of everyone, regardless of race or gender.
We also learned how Chatham served as one of the premier destinations for the estimated 30,000 to 40,000 black American fleeing the USA as part of the Underground Railway. We learned many of the blacks relocating to Canada were in fact not slaves, but educated individuals looking for a better life. However, once in Canada they continued to struggle due to racism and discrimination that exists even today.
We also learned that Baxter Street where my Mom grew up was nearby, yet she has no recollection of growing-up in a black neighbourhood, or of the black history and culture that was just a few blocks away.
Downtown Chatham
Looking for some lunch, the Chilled Cork located in the downtown Retro Suites Hotel was recommended to us. Turns out the hotel is a collection of eight restored heritage buildings including the Merrill Hotel (1890s). The lobby and hallways are full of eclectic artworks and artifacts including original carnival banners, Louis Vuitton lithograph, custom created tool art by Clark Gordon and an original penny-farthing high wheel bicycle. Each of the rooms is themed with the Presidential suite having an eight-foot high Swarovski crystal chandelier. It would definitely be a fun place to stay.
Downtown Chatham is also home to several impressive historic churches that are a reminder of the role religion used to play in shaping our cities, especially the downtowns.
My Mom remembered going to St. Joseph’s Roman Catholic Church, so we parked and wander around it, unfortunately due to COVID and modern security issues we couldn’t go in.
There was a time when churches were open 24/7 for those who wanted to pray and perhaps some place quiet to think and reflect. Another reminder of how the world has changed.
Downtown Chatham’s urban renewal, historical preservation project combines, hotel, retail and restaurants.
Downtown Chatham had several of these colourful, inspirational messages on the side of its buildings.
Last Word
In Robert Frost’s poem “The Road Not Taken” he ends with:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I –
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
If you like this blog, you might like these links:
Postcards: Southern Ontario’s Yellow Brick Road
Southern Ontario Road Trip: Grimsby Beach’s Painted Ladies